Nativeleather working tools




















The further the blade is pushed into the leather the larger the hole gets - making it easy to adjust the size of a hole that was too small for the stitching.

If using a pricking iron, which only marks the leather, an awl is used while stitching to create each hole. Some awls don't come full assembled.

If you're just starting off make sure to get one that's completely put together. Using friction, the edge burnisher melts fibers on the edge of the leather together, creating a slick surface that won't fray. Edges need to be slightly wetted just prior to being burnished. The elongated side of the edge burnisher can be used with gum tragacanth to mat down the fibers on the underside of leather.

This process is all done by hand, which can get a bit tiring. A post on how to make an automatic burnisher for your Dremel will be on the blog soon. A certain kind of knot is used to attach the string to the needle prior to stitching.

For this knot to hold, make sure that the eye of the needle is not too big nor too small for the size of the thread. Leather stitching needles are usually dull. This is because holes are made with an awl or diamond chisels. While not completely necessary to stitch, it goes a long way in making it much easier. Leather is placed between the two wooden planks and then clamped into place. Once clamped, the horse holds the leather at a good height to stitch while you're sitting down.

If clamped too tightly the stitching horse can leave an impression on your leather. This can be remedied by stapling a small amount of scrap leather over the edges at the top of each plank. The hammer is used in leatherwork is when using punches, rivet setters, and tooling. Using a rubber hammer is suggested to help keep your punches and setters in good shape. This helps ensure uniformity of the materials used so the overall feel of the finished product is consistent.

It helps when purchasing leather so you know what to buy. Leather thickness gauges come in a few different forms. Some are flat pieces of wood or plastic with a tapered notch running into it. Other leather thickness gauges are in caliper form. The leather is placed into the device and a metal rod is pushed down onto the leather, securing it between two points.

Based on how far the rod was pushed down, the leather of the thickness is displayed. Displays can be either analog with a needle layout in analog calipers, or digital with a digital numeric layout in digital calipers. Rulers and squares are used in measuring and cutting leather. They come in many shapes and sizes some rulers are bendable so even curves can be measured.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at rules and squares is the ability for it to help making leather cuts. Rulers with cork or non-slip bottoms keep them in place on the material being measured. This makes them useful for drawing steady lines, and also serving as a cutting edge when cutting leather.

The cutting blade can simply be run over the material, slightly pressed against the ruler to act as a guide. Squares, also known as l-squares, are generally an l-shaped ruler. They have a longer ruler-like side, and connected at a degree right angle is another, shorter straight side.

This allows for measuring and marking of corners and perpendicular lines, knowing the angle is precise. L-squares are usually available in metal, plastic, or wood materials. They are marked in inches imperial , millimeters metric , or any variation of scale and units.

Measurement markings are either printed or etched along their length and can be in inches imperial , millimeters metric , or any variation of scale and units. Some rulers have a metal edge built in to serve as a durable edge for running a pen or pencil against while marking material.

Metal edges. A tape measure is a type of measuring device that often retracts into a rolled case. When pulled from the case, the blade extends out and can be held next to or on top of materials to determine their size. Measurement markings can also be made based on the measurements they provide. When done making measurements, the blade can be retracted back into the case, making for convenient carry and storage. Tape measures are usually available in inches imperial , millimeters metric , or any variation of scale and units.

Leather thickness sample sets are a group of small leather samples groups together and each marked with the specific leather thickness of the sample that it is. They are usually joined with a metal ring, or a string, to neatly keep them all together.

Being able to hold, feel, and see the specific thinnesses is quite helpful when deciding what weight material will be most useful for the work. A measuring tape is a type of flexible distance measuring device. It is essentially a ruler printed onto a flexible material, such as plastic. This allows it to easily measure organic curves and shapes, such as people.

For example measuring a waist size when making a belt or calf size when crafting leather boots. Leather working moulders are metal tools that assist in the moulding of leather. The metal end is rounded. This allows it to fit into, under, and around many areas.

They can provide a supportive pressure that holds leather in places when it is being hammered or shaped, when moulding leather in either the wet or dry methods. They are used to mark the location of stitching holes onto leather material.

Since leather is a generally thick material, holes need to be pre-made for the needle and threads or laces to go through. The holes can then be made using awls or chisels. Pricking irons are made with a set distance between points. This is in order to ensure the hole marks are a uniform and consistent distance apart.

This allows for tight seams and a clean visual appearance on the completed leather piece. Pricking irons are usually only intended for marking leather, not pushing holes through it. While a pricking iron might push into the leather, leather chisels are more functional and intended for making the actual holes that pricking irons are used to mark off.

Pricking irons come in variations of tooth counts, commonly ranging from one to twelve. This allows the leather crafter to choose which will be most helpful. For example, when pricking a length of leather in a straight line, more teeth will help accomplish this faster. When pricking a curved end in a leather piece, fewer teeth will be more helpful as it allows the crafter to follow the curve of the edge prick by prick.

They are similar in look to pricking irons, though chisels are intended to make the holes in leather, where pricking irons are intended only to mark the holes in leather.

Leather chisels come in variations of tooth counts, commonly ranging from one to twelve. For example, when chiseling a length of leather in a straight line, more teeth will help accomplish this faster. When chiseling a curved end in a leather piece, fewer teeth will be more helpful as it allows the crafter to follow the curve of the edge, hole by hole.

Also important on chisels is the shape of the tips of the teeth. The tooth shape directly impacts the look of the hole in the leather, which will influence the overall visual design of the finished piece.

Some chisels have angled teeth, some diamond shaped teeth, and others have finer points. Keeping the leather working chisels well-maintained definitely helps ensure they deliver smooth, clean cuts. They are available in many sizes, so the crafter can choose what works best, from thin, fine leather projects to thicker, heaver leather projects that require larger chisels. These are very common tools that most leather crafters will have in their leather working tool set.

Leather punches are tools with rounded blades used to cut holes into leather. Generally, the based are sharpened edges around a hollow metal cylinder, perfect for creating a circular hole. The punch blades can be interchangeable allowing a single handle to accommodate many sizes.

Or, they can be individual tools where the blade and handle are formed from a solid piece of metal. Punches need to be strong as they are used by pounding them with force. A piece of leather to be punched is placed on a nylon surface, on top of a hard, sturdy surface such as granite. The punch lined up and rested on the leather where it will make the hole.

Then, a mallet, hammer, or maul is used to strike the top of the punch. The force of the strike pushes the punch through the material. The softer nylon surface protects the punch blade from damage, and the granite absorbs much of the force. The result is a, smooth, clean hole punched into the leather. Leather punches come in a very wide variety of shapes and sizes for many different uses. It is also important to maintain the blades well, as a sharp blade will produce superior punching results.

Leather round strap end punches are used for cutting the rounded ends of straps and belts. They work by placing the punch over the end of the leather material that is to be cut, then striking the punch with a mallet, hammer, or maul. The result is a semi-circular cut. English point strap end punches are used for cutting the ends of straps and belts. The result is cut that gradually tapers in from the edges and comes to a soft point at the end.

Round drive punches are thin, cylindrical steel tools used to cut holes in leather. The cutting end is made of a sharpened edge around a hollow metal tip. There is usually an opening in the cylinder near the cutting end. The other end of drive punches is solid steel. The force generated but the hit drives the cutting end through the leather. This creates a hole in the leather and a small leather circular piece that used to fill what is now the hole.

As more holes are punched, the circular pieces begin to push up through the cylinder and out of the opening near the cylinder end. Alternatively, after a few punches, the excess circular pieces can be pushed down and out of the punch with a small pin or other thin implement, pushed through the opening. Round drive punches are available is many different hole sizes. Some are individual tools fixed in size. Others are handles with interchangeable punch size tips, requiring less storage space, though some additional time to change tips between sizes.

Most leather crafters will find themselves with at least a few round drive punches in their leather working tool kit. Round punches are great for making buckle holes in belts, as well as across leather projects when creating holes for grommets, eyelets, or even holes for large laces. Leather trace punches are metal tools with a cutting edge used to punch tapered holes into leather. If you imagine an oblong cut, with one side wider than the other, that is what a trace punch creates. They are generally made of steel with highly-sharpened blades.

Multiple sizes are available for use based on preference and what might work best for your project. Leather oval punches are metal tools with a cutting edge used to create oval-shaped holes in leather material. There often have an opening in the punch near the cutting end.

The other end is usually made of solid steel, providing an area to be struck with a hammer, mallet, or maul. Oval punches come in a variety of sizes, offering many options to ensure the crafter has the size that is most helpful the the type of project and work that they are doing.

Leather rotary punches are manually operated, hand-held metal tools with multiple hole-sized punches used to make holes in leather material. There is often an integrated surface for the punches to much onto when cutting. They work by rotating the turret to select the side punch to use, placing the leather material between the punch and cutting surface, then squeezing the grips closed by hand. The gripping motion pushes the punch through the leather and results in a hole.

Rotary punches are available with different sized punches. Some have interchangeable punches, making it easy to have any 6 or so available at a time, quickly accessible at the spin of a turret and squeeze of the grip. Individual punches usually yield more precise results, and also allow more force to be used resulting in generally smoother, cleaner cuts.

Though, for smaller holes and thinner leathers, rotary punches can be a quite effective leather working tool. Button hole punches are metal tools used to simultaneously cut holes and a connected slit, into leather material. When working with button studs, they join leather by pushing through a hole that is slightly smaller than the stud. Hence, once through, the stud holds the button in place. I order to have enough room to push through, there needs to be extra flexibility around the hole to accommodate the stud.

This is done by cutting a slit directly connected to the button hole. The slit parts the leather, making it flexible enough around the hole to accommodate the larger stud. Button holes can be made using a standard round drive punch, then cutting a slit below it with a knife. Alternatively, they be made with a button hole punch. This makes it much easier, with more consistent results, as all of the cutting is done with one tap of a mallet, hammer, or maul onto the button hole punch.

They are available is different sizes so the proper size can be selected based on the needed sizes of the hole and the button stud hardware that will be used. Leather slot hole punches are metal tools with a cutting edge used to create narrow, oblong holes in leather material. There is usually an opening in the punch near the cutting end to insert a thin metal wire and push to release the cut leather material. Slot hole punches are helpful when making holes to run straps through, such as in bag or case making work.

Leather corner punches are metal tools with sharp, rounded edges used to cut through leather. Corners on leather projects can be cut by hand, which requires measuring, then carefully cutting out the curved shape. Alternatively, using a corner punch makes this much easier. The corner shape is set as a metal blade and can simply be placed onto the material and hit with a mallet, hammer, or maul to make the cut.

If there are preferences for more rounded, or more angled corners, different diameters are available as well. Leather shaped hole punches are metal tools with share edges used to cut holes in leather. The cutting edges are available many different shapes, making it easy to add decorative or functional cuts into leather material.

An example of the shapes available include stars, diamonds, hearts, squares, and semi-circles. Cutting intricate shapes by hand can take time. Cutting these with a shaped hole punch make it a much easier, and more efficient process.

These punches are usually made of steel with one end the sharpened cutting blade, and the other solid steel. The solid end us used for hitting with a hammer, mallet, or maul to generate the force that drives the punch through the leather.

If you do much decorative leather work or plan to cut out many versions of a specific decorative shape, a shaped hole punch could be a valuable tool to have. A leather stitching punch is a metal tool with a group of round punches grouped in a straight line. If this is done with a standard hole punch, each hole need to be measured, lined up, and punched. A stitching punch makes this much easier as hitting it once will punch several holes into the leather at the same time.

Stitching punches might have 3, 5, or more blades. The size of the holes and number of blades available varies, so the crafter can choose one or more stitching punches that would help most for their particular project. A leather hand sewing punch is used to punch small, round holes into leather. They are usually made of stainless steel, with two grips, a punching surface, and a punch tip.

The punching surface is generally circular shaped and rotatable, with about 6 differently-sized holes of differing sizes. When using it, the preferred hole size can be rotated under the top, and the leather laid onto the punch surface.

The handles are then squeezed together, pushing the punch tip down into the selected hole size, and a hole is cut into the leather. This is another style of hole punch, and can be a quick way to put clean holes into thinner leathers. A leather ventilator punch is a metal tool that punches a group of round holes into leather material. They have a solid steel hitting end, and a cutting end with several, usually about 6, small, round punches mounted in a generally circular pattern. Ventilator punches make it easy to punch multiple small, grouped holes in leather goods where air flow can be helpful.

This is often seen in bags and cases where air flow can be helpful, and sometimes shoes. If so, these can surely help save time over manually measuring and punching individual holes.

A rosette cutter, sometimes referred to as a concho cutter is a type of metal punch that cuts rosette shapes out of leather. Rosettes are decorate embellishments applied to leather work, usually saddlery. They can come in different designs, though the most common is a circle with about 16 rounded points that make up the perimeter. Think a many-pointed star, though with rounded points. Cutting these each by hand can become very time consuming.

With a rosette cutter, it is much faster. Just place the cutter on the leather, hit it with a hammer, maul, or mallet, and the rosette is cut. Many can be made in a fraction of the time of manually-cut pieces. These tools come in various sizes, each of which can be used depending on your needs. A leather rotary punch machine is a table-mounted machine that helps punch holes into leather material. Whereas manual punches are most common, for those looking for ease of use, consistency of results, and mechanically-assisted punching, the rotary punch is available.

They generally have a solid punching surface where the leather can rest. Above is the punch arm that is controlled by a manually-operated, rotating wheel. Offset guides can be set to ensure consistent distance of the holes from the edge of the material, such as when making holes in belts.

The punch holes in punch machines are often self-centering, making it easy to ensure a proper cut. The distance, center-to-center, between holes is adjustable, as is the tube size for the punch cutters.

These machines are generally very heavy, and do take up table space. If you find yourself doing high-volume or repetitive round hole punching, this could be a useful tool. A self-centering punch machine is a table-mounted machine that helps punch holes into leather material.

It is very similar to a rotary punch machine, having a solid punching surface where the leather can rest. Above is the punch arm that is controlled by a manually-operated lever that helps apply force that pushes the punch through the leather. They generally have many punch dies available in different sizes, shaped to cut points, holes, and slots into leather mater of varying thicknesses.

The tool is self-centering, helping to provide consistent and accurate cutting results. Punch machines are generally very heavy, and do take up a fair amount table space.

If you find yourself doing high-volume production or repetitive hole punching work for, this could be a useful tool. Leather sewing tools are comprised of a wide range of items used for stitching leather. Within these groups there is a great depth of options available that fit across needs, styles, preferences. While leather can be joined by hardware such as rivets and grommets, sewing provides for a wealth of functional and aesthetic means by which to join leather material together.

Leather sewing tools are used to make endless leather goods including wallets, bags, belts, clothing, and shoes. Thread is secured through the eye, and the sharp point of the needle is pushed through material. As the needle goes through the material it pulls the thread. Sewing needles have been used for over 40, years.

Today, they come in a wide assortment of options. There are leather-specific needles that have wider points to help pierce thick leathers. There are curved needles they have a semi-circular, half-moon shape that make it easier to push through thicker materials such as leather and canvas. Very small needles make it easier to sew smaller, thinners leathers while leaving a smaller hole. There are also needles for powered sewing machines, each with unique sizes and performance characteristics based on the intended use.

A sewing needed, either hand-needle or one used in a sewing machine, will likely be something a leather worker comes across during their leather craft experience. Two-prong lacing needles are a type of hand-sewing needle with two prongs that are used for sewing with leather lace. Typical needles have an eye where thread is passed through and secured. This can be tricky or impossible with some leather laces, and the lace, once tied into a knot by the needle eye, would b too large to pass through the lacing hole in the leather.

Two-prong lacing needed have two prongs under spring tension instead of an eye. The prongs are separated and the lacing material slid between them. When released, the tension between the prongs holds the lace flat, and in place. This helps it maintain a thinner profile when passed through the stitching holes, especially diagonal ones. These needles are usually made of metal, and are valuable great tool for hand-sewing with leather lace. Since leather can be a thick, and tough material, these needles help guide thread through without marking up the leather, and while being sturdy enough to hold up.

Common varieties of needles might also break at the eye when used with thicker threads and through tougher materials. The eye is a thinner part of the metal, and susceptible to breakage. Often used for saddlery, they can also be used for bag making, shoe making, and any leather work that requires sewing with thick thread through thick material.

A leather sewing machine is a powered, mechanical tool used to join materials together via stitches. Stitches are connecting points made between materials by singular strands of fibers or threads.

Whereas hand sewing involves carefully making each stitch one-by one, machine sewing allows for much faster, automated stitching. Sewing machines, at a high level, have spools of thread, a sewing surface, a needle, a power source, and a control pedal. The materials to be sewn are guided under the needle, and when the control pedal is pressed, the needle moves up and down, inserting stitches into the material.

As this happens, the material is moved through the machine and stitches continuously in a linear fashion. The result is a row of stitching that is clean, consistent, and strong. If a leather crafter is producing a volume of items, or looking for a consistent finish to their products, sewing machines are indispensable tools. Also since they are powered tools, the amount of human effort needed to continually press a needle through thick thread is greatly minimized.

What might have taken hours by hand, might take only minutes by machine. There are many machine options available. Important considerations when choosing a machine include knowing how heavy the material is that will be sewn, and how durable the machine is. A sturdy, well-maintained machine can last decades or longer.

A stitching stitching pony is a wooden tool with two arms used to hold leather items securely while they are being hand-sewn. Leather can be a thick, tough material. Sometimes, having two hands free makes feeding a needle and pulling thread through a much easier process.

They are similar to a stitching horse, though much smaller. The stitching pony is generally placed on a chair, and sat on.

The leather to be sewn is placed in between the arms, and the arms are tightened, holding the leather in place. If preferred, something soft such as a cloth or other leather can be placed between the stitching pony arms and the leather being worked, further providing protection from scratches.

For leather crafters that hand-sew often, a stitching pony can be a helpful leather working tool. A stitching horse is a wooden tool with two arms used to hold leather items securely while they are being hand-sewn.

Having two hands free makes feeding a needle and pulling thread through leather a much easier process. They are similar to a stitching pony, though much larger. The stitching horse generally stands on the floor, and includes a seat for a person to sit on. Two large, vertical arms that extend up, and can accommodate very large and thick leather items. Stitching horses generally feature smooth, wooden surfaces on the arms which protects the leather. For additional protection, a soft material can be placed between the arms and the leather being worked, such as soft fabric or even other leather.

For those working on larger leather pieces that require heavy sewing by hand, a stitching horse could be a help addition to the leather working shop. A leather table stitching clamp is a wooden tool with two arms used to hold leather securely while it is being hand-stitched. It works similarly to a stitching horse or stitching pony, though rather than being sat on, this simply clamps to a table or other work surface.

A stitching clam is a wooden tool with two arms used to hold materials, especially leather, securely while it is being hand-stitched. If one does a fair amount of hand-stitching, with smaller to medium-sized leather pieces, a stitching clam might be a help. A leather sewing tower is a wooden tool used to hold leather pieces while being sewn by hand. It is often helpful to have both free hands for stitching work, and a leather sewing tower helps makes that possible by providing a versatile group of holding clamps and surfaces on which to secure leather pieces for stitching.

They are generally secured to a table top. Leather can be clamped between each of these arms and the main extension. The main extension can even be position higher or lower on the device. The flexibility of positions and the shape of the main extension allow for leather to be positioned securely for a number of stitching needs including right-angle stitching.

Leather sewing thread is a type of thin yarn, used for joining leather materials together. Threads are very common leather working tools and come in need endless colors. Thread weight choice can be a matter of function. For example, is it strong enough to hold the materials together and not wear out easily from rubbing or abrasions? Thread can also be selected based on aesthetic preference. For example, does the color look great on the leather it is used with?

Does the seam size create a nice, finished visual appearance. Along with colors and wights, threads are also available many different material types. So much thread! Waxed thread is a type of thread that is lightly coated in wax. The wax stiffens the thread, making it stronger. This also enables the thread to be more abrasion resistant, water resistant, and stretch less over time. Waxed threads are great for leather working as the provide a very durable thread that handles well and looks great.

Ideal for hand-sewing, these threads are available in a range of colors and thicknesses weights. Bonded nylon or polyester threads are a very strong, synthetic thread. Whereas many threads are composed of material strands twisted together, bonded nylon is also physically bonded together.

This makes it a much stronger thread. The properties of it being nylon essentially, plastic , make it very sturdy, water resistant, wear resistant, and last a very long time. For many leather working projects, bonded thread is a staple thread used. They are available in a range of colors and thicknesses, so one can be selected to best suit the project you are working on. Nylon threads are also great for machine sewing and hand sewing as well.

Linen thread is made of natural, cotton fibers. While not as strong as waxed or bonded nylon threads, it still provides solid holding strength for thinner leathers and leather goods that will not experience a lot of daily wear. While functional, linen thread can also be decorative in the color selections chosen. Also, since it is a natural fiber, the look of line thread is certainly a bit different on finished leather goods.

Linen thread is generally best for hand sewing, though can be used in lighter machine sewing applications as well. A thimble is a protective device that fits over a finger, and used to assist in pushing a needle through materials when sewing by hand. When sewing by hand, the needle needs to be pushed through the materials being sewn.

Certainly with some thicker leathers, this can require a fair amount of force. That force, applied from a finger onto a tiny needle head could be painful or in some cases dangerous, especially over time with repeated stitching. A thimble covers the finger and provides a harder surface for pushing the needle.

So smart! Most leather workers that hand-sew will have one, two, or many needs around the workshop. A leather lacing fid is a metal tool with a pointed end used to stretch and enlarge lacing holes when working with leather. They commonly have a wooden handle for comfortable holding.

Depending on the tools available, a leather crafter might find they need to slightly enlarge or adjust some lacing holes, and in those cases a lacing fid can come in handy. A wood burning tool is an electrically-powered tool that is used to burn marks into wood. They generally have a handle, and a metal extension that gets very hot, powered by electricity.

When the metal tip is hot, it can be used to burn marks into woods. This same tool can be used to trim threads, especially nylon and synthetic threads.

When sewing by hand, sometimes little pieces of thread are left over after finished the stitch and tying it off. In order to create a visually smooth, and clean finish, the thread can be snipped. Since scissors can only get so close to the seam, due to the natural material thickness of the scissors, sometimes a little bit of thread fray is left behind. Just hold the tool lightly on the thread for a very short period of time, and it will burn away.

Leather crafters have different preferences for finishing threads, for some, this the leather craft tool of choice. When sewing by hand, sometimes when the stitch is finished there is a little bit of thread left behind. Even after trimming with scissors, there remains just a bit of thread fray. Burning the remaining bits of thread away is a practice some leather workers perform, and a common hand-held, or disposable lighter can work great.

Certainly, ensure safe handling practices. When done correctly, this can be an inexpensive and effective way to finish thread trimming on leather goods. Skivers are tools used to remove thin layers of leather material. They generally have a very sharp cutting blade. When the blade is drawn against the leather grain with some pressure applied down upon it, the blade cuts through the leather as it moves along, shaving off a thin layer. Skiving is helpful In many facets of leather work.

It is used, for example when making belts. At the point where the leather is folded over to secure the buckle, there would be double the leather thickness since the material is folder over. This could be bulkier than necessary, as well as potentially uncomfortable to wear. Skiving can be used to thin out the leather, on both sides around the fold, so that when they are joined together it is only about one layer thick.

This will look cleaner and wear more comfortably. This same process can be applied to bag straps, saddlery, and any leather work that involves folding and joining thinker pieces of leather. Skivers are available in hand-held versions, manually drawn against the leather. Skivers are also available in tabletop versions, where the leather is pulled through the skiver. Additionally, there are skipping knives, used to free-hand skive. Carefully removing leather layers is part art and part skill.

Most leather craftsman will at some point have one or several skivers on their leather craft tools list. Leather hand skivers are manually-operated tools for removing thin layers of leather material.

They have very sharp blades that are usually either flat, or slightly curved. Skivers are drawn across leather, with downward pressure applied.

They shave off a thin layer of leather as they are drawn. Flat bladed will shave leather in an even way. Curved skiver blades will shave more towards the center of the blade, since that can cut deepest into the material. Curved blades work well for skiving out curved recesses, or for finely controlling the cutting depth but utilizing the narrower blade heights towards the edges of the curved blades. Hand skiving is effective, though requires practice to produce a consistent result.

As each pass is performed manually, the process can yield natural variations. Leather tabletop skivers are table-mounted tools used to skiver leather efficiently and with consistent results. To skiver with a tabletop skiver, the preferred skiving height is set, leather is placed under the blade, and a lever is lowered to secure the leather in place. Once in place, the leather is pulled through the skiver. This results in a skived piece that matches the height originally set on the skiver.

The thickness of the skive can also be manually adjusted by pushing or pulling on the lever as the leather is being pulled through. This allows for variable thicknesses of the skive, for example towards the ends of a belt or for bag strap. The incredible benefits of these tools is that it produces a very consistent result, very quickly. What could take hours by hand with a hand skiver can take minutes or seconds with a tabletop skiver. There are few moving parts, and blades can usually be sharpened, making these a leather working tool that can easily see years or decades of use.

A leather skiving knife is a speciality knife used to shave off thin layers of leather material. They are usually shaped with a handle, and have a rectangular blade that is sharpened on the short end.

This is used for pushing into the leather to shave it away. The blades are generally available as flat ends, or angled, each with options that include beveled blades for increased control over the thickness of the skiver material.

Since these skiving knives are manually operated, they require development of skill to use effectively. Once experienced with their use, skiing knives can quickly remove leather on belts and straps and other work. They also are agile enough to use on smaller pieces and even help with detailed skiving in tight places. Leather splitters are tools used to uniformly remove a thickness of leather material.

It can be used to split leather evenly, or split it by a preferred and set thickness. Once the thickness of the cut has been set via an adjustment mechanism , the leather is placed into the splitter, secured by lowering a level, then pulled through. It is split as it is pulled through. This produces clean, and consistent results very quickly.

Specifications 9 Setter Dimensions: 4. Easy to use for both left and right-handers. Also countersinks rivets. Contoured wood handle. Our intricately detailed stamps speed your leatherwork and give it a top quali Round with blunt point. Specifications Size 4 Length: 2 in. Size 0 Length: 2. Size Length: 2. Color: Silver Pack of Having trouble getting your stamps lined up perfectly straight?

Properly lining up leather stamps is so easy with our stamp guide. By loosening the Includes curved, glover's and straight. Seven needles in all. Specifications Small Curved Length: 1. Get a clean, quick cut with this sharp, quality oblong punch. Sturdy construction.

Properly edging and rounding the edges of your projects gives a professional look every time. The stainless steel blades maintain a good sharpness Made from 41xx steel, these chisels have incredible strength and toughness due to the case hardening process after the chisels We also offer Home Chevron down icon Tools Tools.

Filters icon Filters. Show 24 36 48 View as Grid icon List icon. View full details. Tandy Leather Stitching Needles.



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